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Post by southernvolt on Aug 20, 2016 12:23:29 GMT 11
I'm a big fan of the Leaf but I'm starting to consider trading it in. I don't have Tesla money and I'm still paying off the Leaf, and primarily want a bit more range so the only option is..... BMW i3, with range extender. I know I'll take a bath on changing over cars after only two years but I'm starting to think it's a real option, almost requirement if I don't want to go back to ICE.
Background/thoughts: I live a fair way out from the Melbourne CBD and have lots of hills so my usage isn't like the "normal" city car type Leaf drivers. I have lost one bar. I am about to hit 50,000 km's after nearly two years. My usage is generally a daily 70km round trip commute and sometimes an evening run of an extra 50km's. I don't have time to charge between runs and recently, possibly with the bar loss, this has become a bit challenging. I usually have to switch to the Diesel to do the second run. I am about to hit 50,000 km's after nearly two years.I had some issues driving down the peninsula recently as we don't have enough fast charge options. With Swinburne offline (permanently?!) we don't even have two fast charge options so the Chademo isn't really a factor anymore IMHO. To make the run to the beach we had to take the EVSE and plug in at our friends house. It was OK but it felt funny to have to ask. It's a cold wet winter here and I'm now finding I have to drive a bit with the heat/defog on and off to ensure I have enough range and that's frankly annoying. I am occasionally making runs into the City and last time I did it without charging at Fed Square I made it home with a very low battery warning. In fat when caught short travelling just north of the CBD and finding the parking garage listed with a charger on plugshare wasn't open until Sat afternoon I had to go via Coburg fast charger to make it home as Swinburne was out of action - again! I was pretty annoyed.
I want to be able to drive the car like it's a normal car with heat and AC when I want it and not have to play the hypermiling game. I think that the i3 will give me this while I wait for the Tesla Model 3.
Thoughts, comments appreciated.
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Post by Feng on Aug 20, 2016 12:47:58 GMT 11
Sad to hear your LEAF is starting to become a burden but two years and 50k is a pretty good run. How about an Audi A3 e-tron? It seems like better value compared to the i3 but you'll be using petrol daily after driving 50km.
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Post by southernvolt on Aug 20, 2016 13:02:58 GMT 11
Sad to hear your LEAF is starting to become a burden but two years and 50k is a pretty good run. How about an Audi A3 e-tron? It seems like better value compared to the i3 but you'll be using petrol daily after driving 50km. I did consider the e-tron and it looks like they're not selling well because they are being offered at a big discount now from the new RRP. $45,000 for demo car. The i3 will likely be $65,000. Two things I thought about. The i3 is still really going to be an EV for me as I should be able to do 99% of my driving electric but have the security of a range extender. This will mean the family will probably do more electric km's as we'll take the i3 over the Diesel because we won't worry about running out. At the moment we're using the old Diesel a bit more because of the peace of mind it offers. The e-tron as you say will have way less electric range and most likely I'll be using petrol every day as opposed to only occasionally. The other thing is Audi is part of the VW group and after the while Dieselgate thing I don't really want to give that Company any of my money.
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Post by stewartm on Aug 20, 2016 14:03:57 GMT 11
Southernvolt why don't you give Renault Australia a call and see how long before they launch the Zoe here. The range of the new Renault built drivetrain R240 is over 200km. Not sure how you go, but the tesla destination chargers are Mennekes and compatable with the Zoe. There is I believe an evse that takes a standard three phase 32amp plug and gives 22kw charging for the Zoe. Just a thought out of left field.
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Post by Feng on Aug 20, 2016 17:49:33 GMT 11
The other thing is Audi is part of the VW group and after the while Dieselgate thing I don't really want to give that Company any of my money. The last two Volkswagens we had were lemons so yeah maybe you'll be better off avoiding them anyway. I can't think of any other range extended EVs, the other PHEVs coming to the market won't offer more electric range than that I think.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2016 17:53:52 GMT 11
What about the volt? I would go volt over Audi Etron as Etron likes to have its fly open without your knowing; unless you like that sort of thing. Also the outlander Phev I've done 79k kms in i3 Rex in Almost 2 years; November.
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Post by hieronymous on Aug 20, 2016 19:14:35 GMT 11
I'm a big fan of the Leaf but I'm starting to consider trading it in. I don't have Tesla money and I'm still paying off the Leaf, and primarily want a bit more range so the only option is..... BMW i3, with range extender. I know I'll take a bath on changing over cars after only two years but I'm starting to think it's a real option, almost requirement if I don't want to go back to ICE. I want to be able to drive the car like it's a normal car with heat and AC when I want it and not have to play the hypermiling game. I think that the i3 will give me this while I wait for the Tesla Model 3. Thoughts, comments appreciated. Hi southernvolt I have often had to point out to students and others over the years that one of their options in decision-making is to consider doing NOTHING. In your case, not quite - but to give a hard look at continuing to use the two vehicles you have now, albeit making your diesel your commuter. Why? You acknowledge you will take a bath selling the Leaf. If you replace it with another EV you will take a second bath on that when your Tesla 3 becomes a reality. All you will be doing will be funding your car dealer's lifestyle (twice), and putting off the day when your car debt is finally retired. Your diesel IS a normal car, heat, AC, more economical than petrol on the highway, no hypermiling, no range issues. You are using it now anyway when you need a second trip in the evening. Just how much will it cost to run your diesel as your commuter, compared with the cost of replacement? You will be thousands and probably tens of thousands better off sticking with what you have. By staying with what you have, you still have your Leaf to enjoy, just a bit less and painless locally, NO commute issues, and it will be the quickest path to a Tesla. So all you have to deal with is a bit of short-term anti-diesel attitude, in favour of medium-term nirvana in the shape of a Tesla in your garage, paid off sooner than later. Making the most of what you already have sounds like a good deal to me! Happy decision making...
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Post by jacky on Aug 20, 2016 19:52:11 GMT 11
Do you need 2 cars? Is it an option to replace your diesel with the i3 so that the LEAF can be used to travel around your home?
I am also with 1 bar down in Melbourne (but on the west side) after almost 2 years AND also pre-ordered a Model 3. I see how your daily commute will look like.
I had a chat with the staff in Coburg council (i.e., the location of the Coburg fast charger) a couple weeks ago. They told me the fast charger hardware of both Coburg and Swinburne suffered a few failure recently. The manufacture in U.S.A sent replacement for free but they will not send free replacement anymore.
The staff said they are considering replacing the until with high power type 2 AC charger if the charger fails again and without free replacement. I see there will be no Chademo in Melbourne and the AC charging on the road isn't an option for us with the 3.3k charger.
There is another thread about whitehorse council having some LEAFs and attempts to get them install a Chademo. This is our new hope. I also wish some organisation or the government will put some money in to build up a fast charging network in Victoria.
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Post by southernvolt on Aug 20, 2016 20:29:18 GMT 11
I'm a big fan of the Leaf but I'm starting to consider trading it in. I don't have Tesla money and I'm still paying off the Leaf, and primarily want a bit more range so the only option is..... BMW i3, with range extender. I know I'll take a bath on changing over cars after only two years but I'm starting to think it's a real option, almost requirement if I don't want to go back to ICE. I want to be able to drive the car like it's a normal car with heat and AC when I want it and not have to play the hypermiling game. I think that the i3 will give me this while I wait for the Tesla Model 3. Thoughts, comments appreciated. Hi southernvolt I have often had to point out to students and others over the years that one of their options in decision-making is to consider doing NOTHING. In your case, not quite - but to give a hard look at continuing to use the two vehicles you have now, albeit making your diesel your commuter. You make a compelling argument. Something I have been thinking about a lot. Turning over a car is a bad idea at the best of times as you just lose heaps of money. I'm intending to retire the X-Trail when I get the model 3 and by that time it will hit at least 275,000 kms and owe me absolutely nothing. I was hoping to keep the leaf and have an all electric fleet. If I can change up the commute and train station it and then use the train for some of the commute the Leaf will last longer as the train station commute will make a 40 km round trip, ish. Will require a new job
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Post by southernvolt on Aug 20, 2016 20:30:29 GMT 11
What about the volt? I would go volt over Audi Etron as Etron likes to have its fly open without your knowing; unless you like that sort of thing. Also the outlander Phev I've done 79k kms in i3 Rex in Almost 2 years; November. Actually I clean forgot about the Volt. Two on cars sales and $30-35K so not bad. I liked it when I test drove it, aside from the very low front end that scraped everything.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2016 22:04:32 GMT 11
It would then Match your handle "southernvolt". Melville Holden dealer removed the rubber air dam from his volt. Just remember that volt has RCD earth leakage issue. So you may get lots of check engine light (CEL) symptoms. Professor Thomas Braunl has CEL from time to time on his volt.
Also I find the knurled knobs may wear out the skin on one's fingers
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Post by leafboi on Aug 21, 2016 2:26:41 GMT 11
I'm having the very same thoughts. Coming up to 4 years and just passing 85,000km now. To be honest I'm not sure summer this time round with the ac on for a 70km trip mostly freeway will be doable without charging. 35km each way. Sure I can charge at work most days. But if another car is parked near the power points im able to use then I can't charge. Also we go on holiday quite a lot and LEAF it to the airport which is again 75-80km. Scary to think we could run flat on our way home after a 10-20hr flight time!
I don't like the i3 really but like you it's a serious contender!
I just don't want to take any sort of bath on change over costs!
I'm going to stick it out until the loan is done in December 2018. Then look at my options. Maybe just pick up a demo Kia or Hyundai until Model 3 is available. It's many times over better than the i3 and we don't even know it's specs yet.
I think you would be better to use the LEAF for your 70km trip until it just can't do it and the xtrail for your extra afternoon trip. It's silly to waste the money in car change overs. But again I know how you feel. I think I'll only be very concerned when I'm regularly getting a low battery warning on my return home from work commute without work charging.
Just know however there are people busting to buy our LEAFs when they hit the used market. Not everyone needs it to drive 100km+ per trip. So our reduced range will be perfectly suitable for someone when we do finally sell.
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Post by moyanous on Aug 24, 2016 21:59:24 GMT 11
I too vote for keeping the leaf and continue with hyper-miling for a while longer. If you aren't doing them already, the following can extend the range of your leaf:
- Brake gradually, so as not to engage the mechanical brake until the very last moment just before the car comes to a stop (you can feel the moment when it switches over to the mechanical brake). - Coast in neutral, which can be done more quickly by switching to reverse whilst the car is moving faster than 20km/h. Dont forget however, to switch back to Drive before applying brakes to enable regen. - Accelerate gradually. I drive in Drive rather than Eco but I try to keep acceleration power to at most 4 dots on the dash display. - Switch to neutral whilst stopping to stop the car from applying power to the motor even though you're not moving. - Dont drive too fast on the freeway to reduce air resistance. - Switch off ABS because it is not really needed unless the road is wet or when you're driving fast on the freeway.
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Post by stewartm on Aug 24, 2016 22:58:03 GMT 11
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Post by 4wardthinking on Aug 25, 2016 10:05:16 GMT 11
The real solution is greater frequency of charge points, or faster ones. The ruling service has a great problem saying no to potential buyers, but make it shall we say "awkward" to own an EV for mixed reasons, then it becomes questionable to actually buy one. If we were to change the Prius to another EV, I would seriously consider the Zoe for certain.
Remember Australia is largely financed on hard to access fuels reliant upon tax. The average fuel (20th century tech) car has to be worth $4k-ish to the government in revenue per annum. Why allow this big herd to be diminished if one can slow it down at least!. Place a few obstacles in the way, and then re-evaluate public spending. More importantly the EV is one of the worlds most significant changes in one hundred years, and economies are going to be hard pushed to encompass this change. Spending will have to change, or another source will have to be found very quickly!.
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Post by 4wardthinking on Aug 25, 2016 10:30:22 GMT 11
Cue the retirees hard earned savings!.
Or stop sending representatives to stand at the side of netting endowed pallets of international aid boxes, and the entourage of publicity clowns with them. Or even 84 Netball courts, where even the infrastructure could not allow for one team per court.
Getting votes is placating of the easy to influence.
Sadly, Australia has very little industry to tax the living day lights out of union driven/controlled niches, where they are all entitled to five figure salaries, because living is expensive, especially when off-Spring "need" to have the expensive things people my age have a hard time affording. I watch my niece with thousands of dollars of electronics I could not comfortably afford, condemn because there's a 'newer' version she has to have, 'cos friends and TVs chosen have.
Stop EV's quickly, we have a great controllable revenue source to pay for this.
I'll climb back down now....
Please don't take any of the previous as in any way political or other-wise, none is intended, it's merely my observation.
I'm still trying to get in touch with the local tafe to be of use and help our descendants see technology as it un-folds, rather than teach them about V8's and mechanics thereof. All the free money cannot replace education, and a more secure future. Just my opinion, no offence implied to anyone occasioning reading my utterings!.
Bring on the EV.
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Post by 4wardthinking on Aug 25, 2016 12:03:30 GMT 11
What about the volt? I would go volt over Audi Etron as Etron likes to have its fly open without your knowing; unless you like that sort of thing. Also the outlander Phev I've done 79k kms in i3 Rex in Almost 2 years; November. Â Actually I clean forgot about the Volt. Two on cars sales and $30-35K so not bad. I liked it when I test drove it, aside from the very low front end that scraped everything. Get a used Prius. Very good value for the Dollar, and frugal, exceeding Diesel oil burning costs. Had four, and diesel doesn't match them in fuel, service or worn parts costs. A VERY un-tapped resource.
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Post by Feng on Aug 25, 2016 12:09:01 GMT 11
How about a Prius with a PHEV conversion kit if you're keen? I think they're still available.
I also considered a Civic Hybrid at one stage to replace my CR-V if/when it dies. Because I was a Honda fanboy before the LEAF came along.
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Post by 4wardthinking on Aug 25, 2016 12:35:00 GMT 11
How about a Prius with a PHEV conversion kit if you're keen? I think they're still available. I also considered a Civic Hybrid at one stage to replace my CR-V if/when it dies. Because I was a Honda fanboy before the LEAF came along. I'd avoid the Honda mild serial Hybrid myself, it's just a boost system to subsidise the full time running petrol engine, and the HV pack is badly managed. A Prius us a parallel Hybrid, and can power the car in EV, Petrol or a combination of both. The EV button on ours is one of the great real EV teasers. Yes, one prod of the button gives you EV mode to around 47kmh with easy throttle opening. The plug in version was banned from our shores sadly. The conversion ones I've seen are quite good, if you pay for it. The Mitsubishi PHEV is a great mis-representation of reality. The figures offered don't match the greedy ice it has as back-up. However, they are a step in the right direction. Of course I'm biased having so many cheap & economical Kms in our Prius's(Prii). The 2001 at 231,000kms has still yet to have more than one set of pads, and only once had its spark plugs changed. Absolutely no oil leaks, and used daily... And still continues. High km comparitively on these vehicles is not a bad mark for them. Taxi Co's have spotted these vehicles!.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2016 15:29:45 GMT 11
My 2004 Prius Which i bought in 2006 had a clunk when going lock to lock. Hence I got rid of it for a golf tdi.
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Post by jake on Aug 26, 2016 13:04:09 GMT 11
I'm a big fan of the Leaf but I'm starting to consider trading it in. I don't have Tesla money and I'm still paying off the Leaf, and primarily want a bit more range so the only option is..... BMW i3, with range extender. I know I'll take a bath on changing over cars after only two years but I'm starting to think it's a real option, almost requirement if I don't want to go back to ICE. I want to be able to drive the car like it's a normal car with heat and AC when I want it and not have to play the hypermiling game. I think that the i3 will give me this while I wait for the Tesla Model 3. Thoughts, comments appreciated. Hi southernvolt I have often had to point out to students and others over the years that one of their options in decision-making is to consider doing NOTHING. In your case, not quite - but to give a hard look at continuing to use the two vehicles you have now, albeit making your diesel your commuter. Why? You acknowledge you will take a bath selling the Leaf. If you replace it with another EV you will take a second bath on that when your Tesla 3 becomes a reality. All you will be doing will be funding your car dealer's lifestyle (twice), and putting off the day when your car debt is finally retired. Your diesel IS a normal car, heat, AC, more economical than petrol on the highway, no hypermiling, no range issues. You are using it now anyway when you need a second trip in the evening. Just how much will it cost to run your diesel as your commuter, compared with the cost of replacement? You will be thousands and probably tens of thousands better off sticking with what you have. By staying with what you have, you still have your Leaf to enjoy, just a bit less and painless locally, NO commute issues, and it will be the quickest path to a Tesla. So all you have to deal with is a bit of short-term anti-diesel attitude, in favour of medium-term nirvana in the shape of a Tesla in your garage, paid off sooner than later. Making the most of what you already have sounds like a good deal to me! Happy decision making... Yep. Fully agree with this. Stick with what you've got 'til something better comes along. You can get around fine with the Leaf and the Diesel.
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Post by unclewoja on Aug 26, 2016 14:38:05 GMT 11
It's a pity the battery backup solutions don't have a DCFC option. For the changeover money between a Leaf and an i3, you could just about have a solar + battery system. And if you could get home to a full battery and dump it into the Leaf @ 50kw it would be a good solution. Since both batteries operated a near to the save voltage, there'd be very little required in the way of inverter/transformer type equipment. Sadly, this is not a reality as yet as far as I know.
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Post by jake on Aug 27, 2016 3:00:08 GMT 11
How about a Prius with a PHEV conversion kit if you're keen? I think they're still available. I also considered a Civic Hybrid at one stage to replace my CR-V if/when it dies. Because I was a Honda fanboy before the LEAF came along. I'd avoid the Honda mild serial Hybrid myself, it's just a boost system to subsidise the full time running petrol engine, and the HV pack is badly managed. A Prius us a parallel Hybrid, and can power the car in EV, Petrol or a combination of both. The EV button on ours is one of the great real EV teasers. Yes, one prod of the button gives you EV mode to around 47kmh with easy throttle opening. The plug in version was banned from our shores sadly. The conversion ones I've seen are quite good, if you pay for it. The Mitsubishi PHEV is a great mis-representation of reality. The figures offered don't match the greedy ice it has as back-up. However, they are a step in the right direction. Of course I'm biased having so many cheap & economical Kms in our Prius's(Prii). The 2001 at 231,000kms has still yet to have more than one set of pads, and only once had its spark plugs changed. Absolutely no oil leaks, and used daily... And still continues. High km comparitively on these vehicles is not a bad mark for them. Taxi Co's have spotted these vehicles!. You are right about the Honda Hybrid. My wife has one. The engine runs 100 percent of the time while moving. Only stopping at traffic lights, however it is very frugal with fuel.
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Post by 4wardthinking on Aug 27, 2016 11:39:02 GMT 11
I too vote for keeping the leaf and continue with hyper-miling for a while longer. If you aren't doing them already, the following can extend the range of your leaf: - Brake gradually, so as not to engage the mechanical brake until the very last moment just before the car comes to a stop (you can feel the moment when it switches over to the mechanical brake). - Coast in neutral, which can be done more quickly by switching to reverse whilst the car is moving faster than 20km/h. Dont forget however, to switch back to Drive before applying brakes to enable regen. - Accelerate gradually. I drive in Drive rather than Eco but I try to keep acceleration power to at most 4 dots on the dash display.[- Switch to neutral whilst stopping to stop the car from applying power to the motor even though you're not moving. - Dont drive too fast on the freeway to reduce air resistance. - ----!!!!!!!!!! Switch off ABS because it is not really needed unless the road is wet or when you're driving fast on the freeway !!!!!!!! If you could, what difference would it make?. ABS is a system than can release brake/s between 4 and 1 wheel to maintain control which is a major contributing factor in collisions. It cannot be turned off at all. It only comes into play when the rotational speed of any/one wheel rapidly changes with respect to others on the car. A "locked-up" wheel is out of control. It releases the brake callipers, and then re-applies them many times in a second to attempt to regain braking control. Forgive me for almost jumping on this one, but I felt it needed correcting before someone tried it. !!!!!!!! .
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Post by Feng on Aug 27, 2016 12:43:52 GMT 11
You are right about the Honda Hybrid. My wife has one. The engine runs 100 percent of the time while moving. Only stopping at traffic lights, however it is very frugal with fuel. How is the Civic otherwise? I haven't fully decided on anything yet, I just wanted to get an idea. I'm sure the Prius is a great car too, I'm just slightly annoyed with Toyota being anti-EV. Might be being a bit petty there. In the end I might just end up with a Dualis just to compliment the LEAF's shortcomings.
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Post by EVangelist on Aug 27, 2016 12:46:51 GMT 11
Stick with what you've got 'til something better comes along. You can get around fine with the Leaf and the Diesel. This, or another option might be to wait for the 2017 Leaf (Gen 3) to be released sometime next year which will allegedly have 300+ km range. Assuming it actually makes it to Oz, I would expect it to cost a bit less than Tesla Model 3 and be available maybe 6 months earlier. Tesla Model 3 drive-away price in Australia will be about $60k for the base model, assuming the average price relativity between USD and AUD prices for Tesla (1.7X, based on current exchange rate and includes GST and stamp duty. LCT does not kick in until $75k).
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Post by moyanous on Aug 27, 2016 18:17:00 GMT 11
I too vote for keeping the leaf and continue with hyper-miling for a while longer. If you aren't doing them already, the following can extend the range of your leaf: - Brake gradually, so as not to engage the mechanical brake until the very last moment just before the car comes to a stop (you can feel the moment when it switches over to the mechanical brake). - Coast in neutral, which can be done more quickly by switching to reverse whilst the car is moving faster than 20km/h. Dont forget however, to switch back to Drive before applying brakes to enable regen. - Accelerate gradually. I drive in Drive rather than Eco but I try to keep acceleration power to at most 4 dots on the dash display.[- Switch to neutral whilst stopping to stop the car from applying power to the motor even though you're not moving. - Dont drive too fast on the freeway to reduce air resistance. - ----!!!!!!!!!! Switch off ABS because it is not really needed unless the road is wet or when you're driving fast on the freeway !!!!!!!! If you could, what difference would it make?. ABS is a system than can release brake/s between 4 and 1 wheel to maintain control which is a major contributing factor in collisions. It cannot be turned off at all. It only comes into play when the rotational speed of any/one wheel rapidly changes with respect to others on the car. A "locked-up" wheel is out of control. It releases the brake callipers, and then re-applies them many times in a second to attempt to regain braking control. Forgive me for almost jumping on this one, but I felt it needed correcting before someone tried it. !!!!!!!! . ABS can be turned off using the right most switch on the top row of switches on the driver side. Although not activated, the ABS is primed and sensors are continuously monitoring the car, ready to spring into action at any instance. Turning it off completely seems to make a small difference to range. I have been driving cars with ABS for the last 12 years and it has not once been called upon. In the 20 years before that, there were a couple of times I found myself in a skidding situation on wet roads and I intuitively knew how to handle the skid by releasing the brake a little and re-applying, so had my car have ABS it wouldn't have made a difference.
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Post by 4wardthinking on Aug 28, 2016 9:04:05 GMT 11
All vehicles are fitted with mandatory ABS from 1998. It's a construction & use regulation for mainstream selling of vehicles in Au. You may not think in 12 years you have used it, and there is a possibility that may well be the case, BUT when it does come into play, you may not believe it assisted you to a safe stop. It did, it runs all the time the vehicle is in use.
The button I believe you refer to is traction control. This is an entirely different system, which is gradually being mandated. The purpose of traction control is to maintain a control between you and the wheels under acceleration. You will notice that if you switch this off, the tyres may begin to "chirp" if you accelerate hard, and what is happening here is the power is being reduced to the wheels(torque) to maintain as much grip as possible. The actual power requested by ones right foot is being fed to the wheels via a system that can detect the powered wheels rotational equilibrium. It also knows what the maximum rotational acceleration is, or should be. Any discrepancy, it will reduce the applied torque to the wheels to bring the aforementioned sensed data into specification. Easily understood as "anti-wheel spin". For the tyre tormentor... Anti-burn out. You can see that control of slowing down & accelerating can be readily advantageous in driving condition where safe passage is concerned. Now in an EV, the traction control also is another self-preservation feature. If the drive motor violently is allowed to rotate to higher than its designed to, one of the main causes of damage is centripetal force pulling the actual windings off the armature(the bit that connects wheels and inside the motor). The forces at play under rotation of the armature are phenomenal, and that's why the A/C drive motor I maximum RPM is stated. It may rotate quicker, but a safety margin is programmed into the drive control ECU. ECU being electronic control unit, or black box.
Stability control is a simple directional acceleration sensor system that uses ABS & TCS(traction control system), and ensures by use of them in unison to maintain direction as requested from the steering wheel & its actual direction of travel. Useful if braking, and you suddenly swerve to avoid an object or condition.
All the systems are safety features just running in the back-ground that just may save your life one day. Disabling any of them may affect your longevity. If you could predict when you need them to work, we would not need them. Remember this.
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Post by 4wardthinking on Aug 28, 2016 9:14:31 GMT 11
Now with all this in mind prior, the time traction control, meaning Traction as the specific word, consider the reason you can and and where it is useful to be able to disable it. You are on a slight incline, the road is icy, or snow covered. You try to crawl the car up the hill, but the TCS cuts in, and says one wheel is not doing the same as the other, and pulls back on the torque presented to the wheel... You go no where!. It is useful to use the drivers judgement in applying power to climb the incline, sometimes we put a floor mat at the front of the wheel to help it gain a grip on the surface, but it will steadily slip, but keep going the driver thinks, at least I'm moving. Useful. All in all, it's a system to maintain a close co-efficient of friction use for the vehicle, and this is a prime example of why you can actually disable it, ABS is an extremely rare thing to disable in a vehicle, sometimes found in genuine off road vehicles for a decline control enhancing option. Hope this helps understand the systems employed in the LEAF for all to read and digest. Please take heed of the warnings in the previous post when considering over-riding the vehicles driver safety systems.
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Post by 4wardthinking on Aug 28, 2016 9:30:50 GMT 11
Just to ram this home, and add some perspective to it all. I noticed the integrated vehicle services consumption on the meter display was less than 150watts. 1000watts is around, for arguments sake here, 25cents. $0.25 of 6.7 hours of "the best chance of living fitted to my car is a bargain, but bear in mind the 150watts includes throttle control, indicator lights, radio etc, etc. somewhere in this blanket power in use number is the safety system power consumption. I know I'd rather leave my jacket out of the car for power to weight costs than disable, or attempt to disable anything so cheap that may save my life, and that of others around me!.
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