kyuss
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Posts: 12
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Post by kyuss on Jan 11, 2021 11:05:42 GMT 11
Background:
After a recent trip Qld to Central Coast NSW and back, I decided that it'd be cool to have my AC charging operate quicker for instances where there are no rapid charge options, and too great a distance for the Leaf's range (such as Pacific Highway, around Coffs c. Dec2020).
Took a punt and purchased a UK 6.6kw (6.6kva) charger from a mob called EVBreakers, and - potentially unnecessarily - also purchased the Type2 port and loom.
Noticed a dearth of media (photos, videos) of this mod being done on the ZE1, so I took a bunch of video and some photos (two below).
Problem1:
Once done, 1 annoying - but work-aroundable - problem i'm keen for ozleaf assistance on, and 1 problem i'm uncertain whether it will solve itself...
I'm getting a "Can't start" "Pull out charge plug" message (the only matches I get for that search term are Russian sites). When I disconnect the black two-wire connector (green & white wires) behind the charge panel it allows me to drive the car, but doesn't permit charging any more. When i plug it back up, it permits charging, but wont permit me to drive. A workaround for now is to manually disconnect it, but that is obviously a pain. A more robust - but still shitty - workaround would be to add a switch to one or both of those wires, accessible from beneath the charge port lid. I figure the fix will be something simple, but can't figure it out yet.
Solution?
Keen for your thoughts.
[edit]
Problem2: "Service EV System" warning is displayed. Have seen this before when tinkering with stuff (instrument cluster removal junk), and it cleared itself. Will see if this one clears itself too... Read DTCs using LeafSpy Pro so will post those for help if needed. [/edit]
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Post by coulomb on Jan 11, 2021 12:07:48 GMT 11
Took a punt and purchased a UK 6.6kw (6.6kva) charger from a mob called EVBreakers, and - potentially unnecessarily - also purchased the Type2 port and loom. Wow. So those are both installed and working, with just these two problems? Congratulations! No solution as yet, but assuming you've changed over to the type 2 charging port, there is a difference in how the proximity pilot signal works. You're supposed to be able to lock and unlock the plug from inside the car; this replaces the J1772 switch. That frees up that pin on the connector, which is now used to signal the maximum safe current for the type 2 cable (various resistors to earth indicate various current capacities). The EVSE should handle all that. My wild guess is that the BMS firmware is checking for the J1772 switch, which now doesn't exist. It might be using this to determine whether the J1772 plug is plugged into the charging port or not. It wants to make sure it's not plugged in for driving, and is plugged in for charging, matching your symptoms. I'd say you'll have to figure out how type 2 systems detect plug presence, and simulate that somehow. At worst, you might be able to fit some sort of microswitch to detect either the plug, or maybe just the "mini-bonnet" being open or closed. I'm sure that there are EV shops that offer type 1 to type 2 port changeover foe Leafs, but they might not be willing to reveal their techniques, for fear of losing market share, or making it easier for competitors. |
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kyuss
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Posts: 12
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Post by kyuss on Jan 11, 2021 14:16:34 GMT 11
Wow. So those are both installed and working, with just these two problems? Congratulations!
Thanks for your input coulomb.
No, have only installed the 6.6kw OBC so far, and hooked it up to the J1772 loom.
I see the J1772 socket on the car is rated to 40A, and the two Type2 charger to Type1 vehicle leads I have (one for tethered chargers, one for socket-only chargers) are both rated to 32A. Accordingly, if I can get away with leaving the J1772 port on the car, I'd prefer that.
Just continuity tested the small plug in the engine bay that I'm disconnecting to enable drive or enable charge.
The white wire in the connector is the proximity detection pin in the J1772 socket The green wire in the connector is the control pilot line on the J1772 socket.
You've given some solid rabbit holes to investigate, so while i'll keep looking into this, your idea of a small switch to disconnect those wires when the lid is closed, and connect them when the lid is open might just be the simpler solution if i cant find a software solution.
Or, try installing the Type2 socket...
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Post by coulomb on Jan 11, 2021 16:47:06 GMT 11
No, have only installed the 6.6kw OBC so far, and hooked it up to the J1772 loom. That's still quite an achievement. So was the charger from a car with a type 2 socket? That might not be so silly, if the charger did come from a car with type 2. On the iMiEV at least, the J1772 proximity and control pilot signals connect directly to the charger. In fact, it must be the same on the Leaf for the "diode fix" to work. So the new charger will be expecting a type 2 socket, so in theory, that would fix your problems. Getting it to fit might be a challenge. Is there any way you can try it out without taking out the existing port first? You'd want a type 2 EVSE and cable at home, I guess, which might be a hassle. |
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Post by brunohill on Jan 11, 2021 23:36:28 GMT 11
My Kona has a type 2 socket and has a switch on the charging door flap that will not let you drive away if you have unplugged but not closed the door.
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kyuss
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Posts: 12
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Post by kyuss on Jan 12, 2021 8:47:09 GMT 11
Excellent question (charger from Type2 vehicle?). Unclear but on probability i'd guess yes because most (all?) 2019 models delivered with the Quick Charge option from factory - esp to my mind those in UK/Europe where Type2 is dominant - would have the Type2 installed. The advert quoted that the charger was from a 2019 and the port from a 2018 so likely not the very same wrecked vehicle unless the wrecker made mistakes in the listings. Thanks for joining more dots WRT port signals to the charger. Yes, I could whip the cover off again ('whip' is generous, I think that'll take a while), and hook the Type2 up loose in the engine bay to test if the car detects charger connected or not connected when I start it up. A little dangerous with all that HV connected and no covers on, but with care, doable. You're right though, unless I could do it in a public place next to a public Type2 charger, I wouldn't be able to test if it actually connects, disconnects, charges, drives as expected. Might see if i can relatively easily replace the Type1 loom for a test run, but i reckon the covers and cable routing at the back of the charger won't be simple, and might not be able to get the cover off without removing wiper motor and support frame again. Hearing that Kona has taken the mechanical switch approach, I think ill aim for now to do the original suggestion and find a Normally Open, IP67, Momentary Switch - maybe like the pictured Narva Marine one or similar - if I can find somewhere around the charge cover latch, or the hinge, or the orange Type1 lid, where the switch (switches if both Proximity and Pilot need to be connected/disconnected) can be pushed while charging, but by default, not pushed for driving. Would prefer Normally Open to Normally Closed as the latter might be more prone to unexpectedly open-circuit while driving if something mechanically fails in the switch or its mounting. Anyway, ozleaf help has been great so far. Thanks heaps! Attachments:
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Post by coulomb on Jan 12, 2021 14:19:50 GMT 11
... where the switch (switches if both Proximity and Pilot need to be connected/disconnected) can be ... I'm 99% sure that you won't have to switch the control pilot, only the proximity signal. But of course, you should check first. |
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kyuss
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Posts: 12
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Post by kyuss on May 21, 2021 20:58:21 GMT 11
(could be my network, but my hyperlinks do wacky redirect.viglink stuff to my URLs hence the full text URL too...)
Update, plus a further question at bottom;
Have done ~4000km since installing the new 6.6kw OBC.
At about the 500km mark;
- received my 'Nissan ABS' type connectors (this style connectors-catalog.sys.yzk.co.jp/yazaki-web/servlet/SubServlet_e?forward=7282-8851-30&plist=list&select=XX ) from a chinese parts store so i could wire up my proximity/pilot disconnect switch instead of having to keep manually pulling the plug apart under the bonnet.
- pulled out the type1 charging port to see what progress I could make and realised it had this terminator (photo below, also linked here but at this URL if you copy the text drive.google.com/file/d/1bGHSh92rDx9suPTgyg6Jkxj7lxTPTOTG/view?usp=sharing ) on another of those ABS style connectors, which was just connecting proximity (lower right small wire) to Earth.
- This finally explained why the earth connection to the rear of the OBC for the Type1 port, runs 1 fat and 2 small wires to the earth point on the rear of the OBC, whereas the Type2 port runs only 1 fat and 1 small wire.
- Removed the terminator (so disconnecting pilot from earth) and the 'problem 1' in my original post (can't start pull out charge plug) was resolved.
- Still received the "Service EV system" warning each and every time I drove the car, with a few DTCs coming out on LeafSpy.
- IIRC (cannot find my notes) the one that temporarily removed the warning on the dash (it immediately returned) was "U1000 008 BCM CAN Comm Circuit". I'll have to check that.
While looking at Type1 vs Type2 ports and looms, one detail became apparent.
Interested in the Type1 port and loom's ability to handle 6.6kw (240v ~30a) current. It looks like the Type1 port in the car and most of the Type1 plugs I have are rated at 240v, 32-40a. I presume that US vehicles (which only use the Type1 port as i understand it) do run 6.6kw, but presumably their wiring is heavier than the JDM Type1 wiring.
On measuring the Type1 JDM wiring loom and comparing with a UK domestic market Type2 wiring loom, they do differ.
Earth Type1 diameter 4.08mm Type2 diameter 4.87mm
Active(s)
Type1 diameter 4.59mm Type2 diameter 4.81mm
While we should allow for the possibility that the insulation is not a uniform depth for both Type 1 and Type 2, it's probable that the conductors for the active and for the earth wires in the Type2 loom, are both fatter than the Type1 loom. So, I'd say it might not be wise to try to tun 6.6kw of charge via the Type1 port and wiring loom.
At about the 3000km mark, I received this;
Warning
Service EV System
No power
and when attempting to start the car and put it in gear, all kinds of chimes, warning lamps, and icons started appearing, plus a message;
Warning
Service EV System
Apply parking brake
- On getting under the bonnet, I realised a WHOLE BUNCH of things I thought I'd tightened to the torques needed, were loose, in fact 1 of the 6 main bolts holding the OBC down to the drive module, had dropped out and was rolling around on top of the splash guard
- Realised something scary on looking at the main connector between the OBC and the drive module, one of the terminals was scorched, presumably from having high load / poor connectivity. (drive unit damage photo here and at this URL if you copy the text drive.google.com/file/d/1P94_NNPbVoAEzNfTdTVt5ZMr-2ZUsPJz/view )
- So pulled the OBC off, cleaned up the main drive unit connectors - both the prongs sticking out of the drive unit, and the connection points inside the base of the OBC - with fine wet & dry sandpaper, then cleaned the terminals with electrical contact cleaner, and reassembled everything putting way more torque into tightening stuff up.
- The "no power" errors cleared fine.
- In the process, swapped out the Type1 port for the Type2 port and wiring loom while I had the cover off the OBC. The physical fitment was perfect, the Type2 fit straight into the metal mounting plate behind the charge port cover, though the plastic cover for the charge ports and the charge port light was wrong so i had to take it off while i found a Chademo Type2 version somewhere.
- In the process of installing the Type2 port and loom, I also realised that the one I was sold was missing the charge port connector lock mechanism that sits on top of the Type2 (a completely different mechanism to the Type1 charge port connector lock - see the image here or at this URL if you copy the text drive.google.com/file/d/1AwttDl2deskIpJlwY8slkmEuWNMfhASL/view ).
- Following a bunch of back and forth with my local Nissan dealer who could not find the part I needed, purchased one from a wrecker in europe.
Just now, so around the 4000km mark;
- installed the Type2 charge port connector lock that just arrived, and the correct size charge port plastic cover for the Chademo/Type2 combo, and realised yet one more issue
- the electrical connector for the Type1 charge port connector lock has 2 wires, and the charge port connector lock for the Type 2 has 4 pins with 4 wires running out the back of the electrical connector to the inside of the lock.
So, my one question;
- if you have a Type2 charge port on your Leaf, is there any way you could figure out - or anywhere you can suggest that I look - to find where those extra 2 wires from/to the charge port connector lock for the Type2, run to in the car?
- See the 2 blanked connector pins (shown in this final photo or this URL if you copy the text drive.google.com/file/d/18zhA9QhkSDKAc5ChAIMBDf7RQCkakYhl/view ) which connect to green/yellow wires on the charge port connector lock mechanism.
- If i can figure out where those two wires run, i might just figure out how to get rid of that damned Service EV system warning.
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Post by EVangelist on May 22, 2021 13:32:09 GMT 11
Update, plus a further question at bottom;
(Lengthy post trimmed) Hooley dooley... that is some commitment and bravery to ‘hack’ your car in that manner. Sorry I can’t answer your question... but I admire your appetite to take something like this on! |
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Post by tomkauf on May 22, 2021 15:03:54 GMT 11
Agreed! I don't usually post if I don't have an answer (don't want to give your hopes up haha), but that work deserves some serious praise.
Good luck with everything.
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Post by coulomb on May 23, 2021 15:04:30 GMT 11
is there any way you could figure out - or anywhere you can suggest that I look - to find where those extra 2 wires from/to the charge port connector lock for the Type2, run to in the car? I think you'll have to find a service manual. I had a quick look, and didn't find anything useful. I have a 2012 manual, or at least a collection of PDFs, but the 2012s seemed to only ever come with type 1 connectors, even in Europe. I don't recall where the service manual came from. My guess is that two wires are the switch that indicates that the plug is locked, and the other two are the wires to the motor. You'd have to reverse the voltage to the motor to unlock versus lock, I'm guessing. Maybe the switch gives you clues as to when to stop driving the motor, so you don't "go past the end". Maybe there's electronics or mechanics in there to limit the travel of the motor, but if there was it would seem that it has to be sensitive to the polarity of the applied voltage. Great work so far, it seems that you are getting pretty close. |
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Post by tomkauf on May 23, 2021 16:28:37 GMT 11
I have a 2014 Service Manual if that helps. I think it's 2014 anyway, since it says May 2014 Revision. Not sure where I downloaded it from, but I put it on my Google Share Drive (easier than trying to find it online again): drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qZKTU0Blb4FrH1QcwwCnqO5iWMMnE_yV?usp=sharingI don't know my way around the Service Manuals, so hopefully you can find what you're looking for. |
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kyuss
EV Enthusiast
Posts: 12
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Post by kyuss on May 23, 2021 19:26:10 GMT 11
I have a 2014 Service Manual. Awesome Ty sir. In the evc pdf I think they usually talk about the charge port lock actuator, I haven't looked at a 2014 book, but did purchase access to the 2018 one from the Nissan USA site, not realising they only include US/Canada variant manuals, all of which use the type1 even the 6.6kw ones. I'll have a browse of this one. Thanks heaps. Haven't yet read coulomb's post, will do so in a sec. |
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Post by tomkauf on May 23, 2021 22:02:30 GMT 11
No problem. I hope it doesn't also have only US/Canada, but fingers crossed.
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Post by coulomb on May 24, 2021 0:27:41 GMT 11
No problem. I hope it doesn't also have only US/Canada, but fingers crossed. Well, there is something about locking there, but it's not clear to me whether that's for type 1 or type 2 or both. Search for CHARGE CONNECTOR LOCK/UNLOCK CONTROL in the Vehicle Charging System PDF (not the other one with "charging" in the name). My 2012 doesn't lock the J1772 plug, but I suppose it's possible on later models. |
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Post by Feng on May 24, 2021 2:19:00 GMT 11
My 2012 doesn't lock the J1772 plug, but I suppose it's possible on later models. Yeah the AZE0 can lock its J1772 port. Supposedly it's also easy to bypass with a screwdriver if you knew where to stick it! |
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repete
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Post by repete on Oct 27, 2021 21:21:25 GMT 11
Somewhat off track here, but how do I find out which charger my recently acquired 2020 (2021 MY) ZE1 e+ 62kWh has in it? Japanese import.
I'd like to install a faster charger at home but no point putting in anything much bigger than the car can use.
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Post by coulomb on Oct 28, 2021 12:19:21 GMT 11
how do I find out which charger my recently acquired 2020 (2021 MY) ZE1 e+ 62kWh has in it? From this US-centric post: "From 2013 on, all SV and SL trim Leafs have the 6.6kw onboard charger.None of the pre-'13 Leafs have it, and of the S trim cars (made from 2013 on), only those with the Charge Package have it.The others have the 3.3kw charger used in the 2011-2012 cars."The "S trim" is the lowest trim level in the US; it's likely called something else in Japan. |
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repete
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Post by repete on Oct 28, 2021 19:24:12 GMT 11
how do I find out which charger my recently acquired 2020 (2021 MY) ZE1 e+ 62kWh has in it? From this US-centric post: "From 2013 on, all SV and SL trim Leafs have the 6.6kw onboard charger.None of the pre-'13 Leafs have it, and of the S trim cars (made from 2013 on), only those with the Charge Package have it.The others have the 3.3kw charger used in the 2011-2012 cars."The "S trim" is the lowest trim level in the US; it's likely called something else in Japan. Thanks. I've also read in quite a few places that the Japanese vehicles all have 3.4kw chargers, irrespective of model or year, at least up to 2017/18. However we found a site that indicated where the label is on the charger - RH side buried a bit beneath various fittings. I could get some photos of it and have confirmed it's labelled 6.6kW. Hooray. |
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Post by steve430 on Aug 27, 2022 18:38:13 GMT 11
hello
any updates on this. I am at the same point.
swap this and having error as charger cable is plugged and not letting me drive the car
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kyuss
EV Enthusiast
Posts: 12
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Post by kyuss on Aug 29, 2022 7:01:28 GMT 11
hello any updates on this. I am at the same point. swap this and having error as charger cable is plugged and not letting me drive the car Hey Steve, if you're on the type 1 loom, there is a terminator block, taped up behind the type1 port. If you pull the port out, untape the terminator block from the loom, you can pull the terminator's cap off and disconnect the wires that are making it so you can't drive. |
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Post by steve430 on Aug 29, 2022 9:18:22 GMT 11
Yes i am on type 1 loom.
I have done something else and i am able to drive the car also
I have removed a cable (brown wire) that is communication link.
Before removing i was not able to drive but it drives now
I have an error, but had the same error before removal also
Error code p31d8
Although car recognises 6.6
Car is still being charged with 3kw (I assume it is because of fault)
Can you charge with 6.6?
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gurkut
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Post by gurkut on Sept 9, 2022 21:26:31 GMT 11
Hi, any news about project ? Yes i am on type 1 loom. I have done something else and i am able to drive the car also I have removed a cable (brown wire) that is communication link. Before removing i was not able to drive but it drives now I have an error, but had the same error before removal also Error code p31d8 Although car recognises 6.6 Car is still being charged with 3kw (I assume it is because of fault) Can you charge with 6.6? |
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Post by SomewhereSouth on Sept 20, 2022 5:56:40 GMT 11
Watching this closely as I'm contemplating a similar upgrade - far easier to find a 6kw Type 2 OBC and cables than it is to find a JDM ZE1 with the 6kw Type 1 charger!
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Post by SomewhereSouth on Sept 20, 2022 6:00:51 GMT 11
Somewhat off track here, but how do I find out which charger my recently acquired 2020 (2021 MY) ZE1 e+ 62kWh has in it? Japanese import. I'd like to install a faster charger at home but no point putting in anything much bigger than the car can use. So I have something to add to this - on the JDM cars, there are two types of cover that sit on the PDM which will tell you what type of OBC is fitted. On the standard 40kwh EV, these have a wavy molding if the 3kw charger is there. Most (99%) of the JDM cars will have this. The 6kw charger PDM has a totally flat black cover - if you've got an E+, it comes with the 6kw charger by default. I believe this is also the case for the NZ/Aus new models that have Type 2 connectors. The 6kw charger is an optional manufacturer's extra for all 40kw JDM Leafs, but all JDM Leafs will have Type 1 connectors. As far as I can tell, there's no other way to tell unless you can see the dash or a photo from under the engine bay. |
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