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Post by iamlsd on Feb 1, 2020 21:39:31 GMT 11
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Post by tomkauf on Feb 1, 2020 21:47:53 GMT 11
Wow, thank you very much! I will definitely try that, because the Speedo is out by a fair bit. I'm used to it from our Subaru, which are know to be ~7km/h out. But it's definitely a bit more on the Leaf. And I think an analogue gauge is a bit more forgiving than a digital readout, because a needle's width up or down is a few km/h. But I prefer seeing it displayed digitally, so it'd be great if that adjustment works on our 2015 as well.
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Post by coulomb on Feb 1, 2020 22:10:31 GMT 11
I will definitely try that, because the Speedo is out by a fair bit. I've just got new tyres all around, so new wheels and tyres is off the menu for me for many years. The conclusion from that thread is that the -2.5% / 0 / +2.5% calibration facility is disabled. That seems shocking to me, so I'd be happy to hear whether you find it makes any difference. Yours being an import means your result might be different from mine, but still of interest. Also, why not a few more steps? I hear that modern computers are pretty good at doing multiplication on the fly...
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Post by tomkauf on Feb 2, 2020 18:06:40 GMT 11
No luck getting into the service menu unfortunately. I read multiple instructions, and watched YouTube videos, but no luck.
Either it is because the Headunit is a Nissan Connect Unit, or because the buttons are different (or both). On the right-hand side I have FM/AM, Disc, TV/Aux instead of Map, Menu, Status.
I even tried pressing the left side buttons instead (probably the equivalent of Map etc in Japanese), but no go.
Tomorrow the Headunit will be swapped to an English converted one, so I'll try again after that.
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Post by dac1811 on Feb 2, 2020 18:36:45 GMT 11
hi Tom, I just tried it on my local leaf and also had a lot of trouble getting in but I eventually did. The original instructions were probably a little brief.
1st turn on the car ready to drive. then press MAP to go to the Sat Nav page, and press OK for the nagging authorisation menu to get there. Then turn off the audio (if it was ON).
Now the next part has to be done very quickly - MAP 3x Audio 2x MAP x1
all within 1-2 secs. ie as fast as you can... Then it works.
I found that if I didn't do it very quickly it did not work. DAC
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Post by tomkauf on Feb 2, 2020 20:25:34 GMT 11
hi Tom, I just tried it on my local leaf and also had a lot of trouble getting in but I eventually did. The original instructions were probably a little brief. 1st turn on the car ready to drive. then press MAP to go to the Sat Nav page, and press OK for the nagging authorisation menu to get there. Then turn off the audio (if it was ON). Now the next part has to be done very quickly - MAP 3x Audio 2x MAP x1 all within 1-2 secs. ie as fast as you can... Then it works. I found that if I didn't do it very quickly it did not work. DAC Thanks dac1811, that worked to get into the Service Menu . I don't think I was fast enough before - every video I saw had them pressing the buttons much slower. But in Navigating, I only have Sensor Information, nothing else. It just has a page of information but no option to change anything. That is through Google Translate though, so tomorrow I'll be getting the swap to english done. So maybe I'll have more options then. Or maybe the later Nissan Connect Headunits like mine have some functions removed. But even apart from that, there are a lot if very interesting menus. You mentioned the nagging authorisation menu (I assume about using not using the Stanav etc while driving). There's an option 'Safe Driving Message' On/Off. Do you have that? Maybe that's an option to turn that annoying message off.
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Post by tomkauf on Feb 3, 2020 14:32:30 GMT 11
No change in the Service Menus after the update to English unfortunately. That Part is still in Japanese, and only shows this screen in 'Navigation'. No option to change the speed by eg. 2.5%. But thanks anyway, was good to work out the Service Menu at least . Attachments:
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Post by tomkauf on Feb 3, 2020 14:44:05 GMT 11
Who are you getting the SatNav conversion from? Can’t seem to find anyone who can do the 2016 30kWh jap to English conversion for the Head Unit. Chris from Japan Imports did the Head Unit today (his worker). As I mentioned previously, he must've gotten confused with the earlier Carwings Headunits when he said they'd have Maps. Because the Nissan Connect one doesn't have Aus Maps. Radio works (sort of - not great at picking up stations so far). It has Radio options for different regions of NewZealand, so it definitely has English NZ Firmware. Was quoted $600, but when I arrived it was '$600+GST'. And I realised after I had left, that a few trim clips were still in the footwell (picture below - I'll try to see where they go). He lent me a loaner Leaf for a few hours though, and he's a nice guy. So depending on what your skill level is, it doesn't look like the swap is hard. So diy is good option as well. Attachments:
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wayne
EV Tyre Kicker
Posts: 1
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Post by wayne on Sept 25, 2020 18:51:04 GMT 11
I bought a 2016 30kWh Nissan Leaf through a Melbourne importer for $30k. When I received the car was in very good condition with 12 bars but no Aussie maps but I failed to notice that LeafSpy had indicated that one of the cells (no. 23 out of about 98) had a low voltage (about 200mV low) and now quite regularly the car goes into "turtle" mode with limited power which prevents me from driving smoothly up hills or accelerating quickly. Disconnecting and reconnecting the 12 V battery resets the error message and returns power to normal but turtle mode usually returns by the next restart of the car. Nissan Australia's service centre are looking into solutions - initially they suggested that a new battery might be required but hopefully only the cell (or the battery controller) needs replacement. The web suggests that there was a batch of faulty batteries distributed worldwide from the USA in late 2015-early 2016 and I guess my car is one that got the bad battery cells. Has anyone else had a similar problem?
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Post by Feng on Sept 25, 2020 19:25:24 GMT 11
Bad luck! There was a guy in Canberra who had a Leaf which had a sudden range drop after driving on a full charge. He spent years complaining about it. Nissan didn't look after him at the time, then it got some media attention and after that nobody heard from him. Maybe he cut his losses or maybe they made him a deal. Is there a statutory warranty in Victoria? In NSW it's 3 months, 5000km. Maybe you can get the car returned if it proves to be a lemon?
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Post by coulomb on Sept 25, 2020 21:52:31 GMT 11
Maybe he cut his losses or maybe they made him a deal. I hope it wasn't Nissan Ninjas
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Post by tomkauf on Sept 26, 2020 13:00:16 GMT 11
Sorry to hear about your problems wayne. Nissan can replace an individual cell, but labour costs are still high, due to having to remove the whole battery pack. There's been at least 1 guy on the forum, who kept chasing one low voltage cell after another (and battery pack removal every time). So hopefully it doesn't end up like that for you. In terms of what you can do to balance the cells, try this. A lot of this is anecdotal, but it's a worth a try. If you want to do some reading: www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=27831- Charge at home to 100% and leave it plugged in for a few hours afterwards. Then unplug and plug back in. Leave it for another few hours. Don't leave it sit on 100% for too long, that's not good for the battery. Just go for a drive to bring it back down to 80-90%. - Does your Leaf have CHAdeMO DC fast charging? I have read some info that may help as well, so it's worth a try. Find a public CHAdeMO station and charge to 80%.
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jaginoz
EV Enthusiast
Posts: 47
LEAF OWNER?: Yes
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Post by jaginoz on Oct 8, 2020 11:19:09 GMT 11
Hi Tomkauf will check the cruise control today on our Dec 2015 Leaf and will you know. We aren't sure if it's Gen 1 or Gen 2 ie not a Japanese Gen 2 but an outside-of-Japan Gen 2, which seems to be defined by the boot dimensions, we have the Gen 2 boot dimensions. We aren't even sure if we do have a 24KW or a 30KW - but that's a whole other story and merits posting for help. We didn't go the route of importing directly ourselves, given lack of knowledge, but actually the dealer knew even less than we did (and their name has appeared in this thread and no they don't come good with maps).
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jaginoz
EV Enthusiast
Posts: 47
LEAF OWNER?: Yes
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Post by jaginoz on Oct 8, 2020 13:24:14 GMT 11
urgh - sorry was on the wrong page. But this is a page we wanted to be on anyway... We did the same as Wayne - didn't realise that the one low bar on the leafspy output sent to us by the dealer meant a set of cells were wonky. Can't upload the image because the forum has exceeded it's space limit but looks like cells 52-54 are affected, 55mV.
Of course, being newbies, we probably did everything else wrong as well. The vehicle (Dec 2015 Leaf) was stored by the dealer probably at 50% battery since acquisition (as near as we can tell from the compliance date storage of at least a year) and was about 40% when we picked it up from the freight company last week. We had calculated it would be enough charge to get us home - we ran out of battery 3km from home but having had our other vehicle with us we towed the remainder (what an experience) - turtle and warnings and etc.
We then trickled charged to 100% over the next 3 days (we are totally off grid so no overnight charging), and the capacity showed 180km at 100%. Unfortunately we charged the vehicle in the sun for at least one of the those days, the next time we checked the capacity it was 146km!
We've driven the vehicle and charged to 80% out of the sun since then, so not sure what capacity it will reach. By then hopefully have the dongle sorted out so that LeafSpy can give a bit more info. Maye if we are lucky the BMS will have a positive effect on the cells.
It would help if we knew what capacity the battery has. The dealer told us it was a 2016 model, but now we aren't so sure. It is a G model with all the added bits, but may not have the 30kWh battery (which was optional in Japan, apparently).
We are driving to town tomorrow, which will use up all the charge, and intending to do a rapid charge in town. There seems to be quite a bit of info around that suggests a rapid charge from 0% might help with rebalancing the cells, if we have understood correctly.
Any thoughts?
Cheers and thanks.
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Post by rusdy on Oct 8, 2020 14:33:43 GMT 11
...
...The vehicle (Dec 2015 Leaf) ...
We then trickled charged to 100% over the next 3 days (we are totally off grid so no overnight charging), and the capacity showed 180km at 100%. Unfortunately we charged the vehicle in the sun for at least one of the those days, the next time we checked the capacity it was 146km!
...
I think you have 24kWh battery from the info above. How many capacity bar do you have? Referring to lingo here:
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Post by tomkauf on Oct 8, 2020 16:05:18 GMT 11
Hi jaginoz, Yeah I was wondering what the Cruise Control had to do with it 😅. If it's an import, then at least it would've been driven regularly until the dealer got it. Unlike some of the original Aus delivered Leafs that sat for a long time from new. 50mV isn't terrible. I've seen 22mV on our car. And the GOM (range guess) depends on how the car is driven - highway or city. So don't worry too much about that. It'll also recalibrate now that you are driving. Eg. The previous owner might've gotten much better range if it was driven mostly in the city at low speeds. That could explain the drop from 180km to 146km. What's important is the SOH (State of Health aka Capacity) Bars. That'll give an idea of Battery degradation. LeafSpy will give you a more accurate number, but the bars will tell you within about 6-10%. And obviously if the battery has a major issue, you'll see a sudden drop in Range Estimate. Eg. Leaving home with 140km, and after a short drive it drops to under half that. We imported a 30kWh model, because we live out of town. This is apparently an easy way to check what battery it has. I'm not in the Leaf right now, so let us know if that works for Japanese imports as well. www.speakev.com/threads/how-to-tell-if-a-leaf-is-24kwh-or-30kwh.43153/Yes, definitely try Fast Charging to try rebalancing the cells. It's not good for the battery to regularly go near 0%. We've only ever had Turtle Mode once (as we drove into the driveway). For normal driving/charging, try to keep it between 20% and 80%.
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Post by tomkauf on Oct 8, 2020 16:10:55 GMT 11
And it's easy to see the different generations of Leaf. You're right regarding the different boot. This page has some good pictures, showing the difference: samholford.github.io/leafguide/
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jaginoz
EV Enthusiast
Posts: 47
LEAF OWNER?: Yes
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Post by jaginoz on Oct 8, 2020 21:43:34 GMT 11
Hi Rusdy and Tomkauf, we have 12 bars and 87% SOH. It had 7000km on the clock, driven between Dec 2015 and early 2019 in Chiba (pretty flat terrain for most of the prefecture). We had checked the speakev forum too, that only works for UK cars. The Jap car driver door beam between driver and passenger doors only lists tyre pressure. Also checked the US boards, the wisdom there is either A or B in the 4th position of the VIN indicates batter, but the VIN doesn't have the A or B. The dealer said it was 30kWH because it was a 2016 model, even though it was a Dec 2015 model. At that point we didn't know enough to know it might not be, and we did want 30kWh because we are out of town too. Hopefully we can charge using our 16amp charger faster than the 10amp when we are in town otherwise it's pretty much well buggered us because a round trip is 140km. Is it correct also that a 24kWh battery and software modules can't be swapped out for bigger sized batteries? Think we read about that on one of the threads here. Somebody in Ukraine and Russia had put a Tesla 100kWh battery in? Not aiming for that, but maybe a bit bigger. The local Nissan dealership said they would try and see if their computers can talk to the car, which means we can swap out the cells as they start to go bad, but hopefully that's a while off yet. They also said to check the driver manual (the thick one - there is supposed to be a specification table, but there isn't one in this manual, at any rate). Thanks for all the help. Will see how the rapid charge goes tomorrow and whether we end up with sudden drops. Hopefully it's as you said, the car is getting used to the new owners (who drive in B with ECO the whole time!). Apart from the steep learning curve we really like the car, just think we might have jumped the gun a bit without doing enough homework.
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Post by tomkauf on Oct 11, 2020 1:20:15 GMT 11
Shame that the weight plate or VIN decode didn't work. The US has different VIN lengths, so that may be why. Once you get LeafSpy working, that'll confirm it. We still can't attach a picture on the forum, but the final screen shows 'kWh Remain' in large letters. If you have the car charged to 100%, that should read 24kWh or 30kWh after calculating in the battery segregation (87% in your case). Eg. Ours was 23.8kWh remaining, divided by 85.07% SOH = 28kWh. There's probably some buffer on top of that which takes it to 30kWh, but clearly too high to be a 24kWh model. That's actually a really good SOH btw. Our 50,000km 30kWh late 2015 model had 85% SOH. The first bar drops below 85%. A battery upgrade is possible. The NZ workshops have worked out a way. Even a 40kWh and 60kWh may for possible eventually. See table on this page for info: evsenhanced.com/products/battery-translator/
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Post by rusdy on Oct 11, 2020 1:32:55 GMT 11
Hi Rusdy and Tomkauf, we have 12 bars and 87% SOH. ... and we did want 30kWh because we are out of town too... Without leafspy, the next best thing is to find your 'usable capacity' by conducting range test. Step 1: Fully charge the car. Step 2: reset both Wh/km and trip counter. Step 3: Drive as much as you can (multiple trips spanning couple of days are fine) until not much range left. Let say until the dash (i.e. 'guess-o-meter') says 20 to 30ish km left. Step 4: Add your total travel (since reset in step 2) with the remaining km left (the 'guess-o-meter') Step 5: calculate your usable capacity by multiplying figure from step 4 above with your Wh/km figure (from the dash). For example: I travelled 49 km this morning and then my GoM said 66km left, with 0.13 kWh/km average. This means, my 'usable range' is 49 + 66 = 115km (@0.13kWh/km). My 'usable capacity' is 115 km * 0.13 kWh/km = 15kWh. If your dash shows km/kWh figure instead, then you'll need to divide instead. Step 6: compare your 'usable capacity' with known 30kWh model out there. Well... After googling a while, I still can't find the exact figure, but I do know usable capacity of 24kWh model is roughly 21kWh. Don't forget about the 87% SoH of yours. If your usable capacity is rroughly 18kWh, then we can confidently say it's a 24kWh model (21 * 87%). oh, I forgot to mention, knowing usable capacity is extremely useful, as you can calculate whether you can make your 140 km round trip or not (after getting real life data Wh/km figure). ... Easier to get leafspy as you can see 😂
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jaginoz
EV Enthusiast
Posts: 47
LEAF OWNER?: Yes
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Post by jaginoz on Oct 11, 2020 9:18:09 GMT 11
Hi rusdy and tomkaufthanks for the heads up on the work around. To update on battery size, inadvertently that's exactly what someone did for us using the only LeafSpy reading we have so far (from the dealer). I rang NZ EVs Enhanced and spoke with Walter. He asked for the LeafSpy data and calculated we have a 30kWh battery. He also said Nissan Australia dealers ought to be able to read the direct Jap import onboard software and identify the faulty battery cell and replace the module, but he was less confident that they would do it at a reasonable price point.
When we almost fully charged in town (we couldn't find an available DC 50kW that was free when we arrived, but there was a CHAdeMo so we ended up with fast but not rapid) the available KMs were 190km. Haven't hit the reset but will do that now for the next charge.
As far as that round trip went, we have a bit of a hill (basically 300m up or down in one hit), we gained 20km going down, according to the display, but it cost 50km going up! And yesterday, after a few local trips (pick up the post, attend a volunteer fire brigade meet) we had 36% with 36km left, which is pretty suggestive of wonky cell. We calculated that the return trip from town, according to the available kms when we arrived home, used 100km for a 70km one way trip.
As far as LeafSpy goes, in the other thread on dongle recommendations, we have an error message that the dongle can't connect, and will update the latest on that - briefly, we wrote to WattsLeft (Jim) the LeafSpy author, who replied that the error is an android device error and there must have been another app/device pairing with the phone (android apparently only allows one pairing at a time). Except there wasn't, and the OBD2 App and OBD2 dongle paired with the phone and worked with the Nissan Navara (we got the OBD2 app to test the dongle after we couldn't connect the android to the Leaf with LeafSpy/OBD2 dongle) with no problem.
So have ordered as per the suggestion from tomkauf.
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Post by tomkauf on Oct 11, 2020 11:45:54 GMT 11
Thanks for the update. Any CHAdeMo will be fast enough since it's DC Fast charging. I'm not sure if some are slower than others, but our Leafs can do 50kW max anyway. I usually see around 40kW.
Your initial range is promising. It doesn't rule out a faulty cell, but 183km is the highest we've seen on our GOM at 100% SOC. But our degradation is worse. The GOM is optimistic though, even when it calibrates.
Not knowing your area, the last thing you could try is the 'A Better Route Planner' app. It's a trip planning app for electric vehicles taking into account charging locations (although Plushare is more comprehensive for locations). It estimates your SOC for a certain trip, taking into account terrain and road speeds. It's pretty accurate, so you can compare what you got the other day to its estimate.
Put in your vehicle model incl battery size. And in the settings your degradation %, and departure %. Then departure and destination points (incl arrival back home). You don't have to start the routing, just slide up once it has calculated the route and it'll have a predicted SOC% at each waypoint.
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jaginoz
EV Enthusiast
Posts: 47
LEAF OWNER?: Yes
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Post by jaginoz on Oct 11, 2020 20:40:52 GMT 11
Hey tomkauf, thanks a lot for that tip re route planning app! While we can't really change the route (we live on the other side of an escarpment which runs parallel to the coast, so at some always have to go down and back up), but it would be much better than the flying blind at present. Also because we would really like to just be able to run off our own solar gig, rather than charge off the brown stuff in town. Speaking to Walter, apparently NZ don't have that problem because 90% of their grid is hydro.
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Post by EVangelist on Oct 11, 2020 21:38:26 GMT 11
Also because we would really like to just be able to run off our own solar gig, rather than charge off the brown stuff in town. Speaking to Walter, apparently NZ don't have that problem because 90% of their grid is hydro. Buy 100% green power from your electricity supplier. Every kWh you buy is then 1 kWh your supplier has to buy from a renewable generator and 1 kWh less that they buy from a fossil generator. By doing this you are basically boycotting the fossil generators. It’s the closest thing to clean without having solar panels on your roof! And even though I have solar panels and a battery, I still draw on the grid about 20-30% of my consumption and buy 100% green power for that.
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jaginoz
EV Enthusiast
Posts: 47
LEAF OWNER?: Yes
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Post by jaginoz on Oct 11, 2020 21:48:17 GMT 11
Also because we would really like to just be able to run off our own solar gig, rather than charge off the brown stuff in town. Speaking to Walter, apparently NZ don't have that problem because 90% of their grid is hydro. Buy 100% green power from your electricity supplier. Every kWh you buy is then 1 kWh your supplier has to buy from a renewable generator and 1 kWh less that they buy from a fossil generator. By doing this you are basically boycotting the fossil generators. It’s the closest thing to clean without having solar panels on your roof! And even though I have solar panels and a battery, I still draw on the grid about 20-30% of my consumption and buy 100% green power for that.
erm - we have only PV on the roof . totally off-grid . the problem is that we probably most likely aren't able to do the round trip to town (we are 70km out) without having to recharge at the charging stations in town (distance anxiety!), which presumably are brown, since in this state, the power company has no renewables (except for those people like you who are producing and feeding back into the grid to the benefit of the rest). Not sure if Plugshare can ID outlets according to the type of electricity available for recharge - anyone know about that? we could at least then make sure that we fill up at green outlets, if any are around.
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Post by brunohill on Oct 11, 2020 22:03:18 GMT 11
"which presumably are brown, since in this state, the power company has no renewables (except for those people like you who are producing and feeding back into the grid to the benefit of the rest)". Victoria has Hydro, Wind and large commercial solar. Victoria also has 3 batteries, but I guess they don't want to tell too many people or the far right would cause too many problems. I just had a look, it is 22:14 in Victoria and it is running 3% more renewables than South Australia.
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Post by EVangelist on Oct 11, 2020 22:19:39 GMT 11
Victoria has Hydro, Wind and large commercial solar. Victoria also has 3 batteries, but I guess they don't want to tell too many people or the far right would cause too many problems. I didn't see where jaginoz indicated which state he was in, and misinterpreted his comment.
Yes, every state has a growing proportion of renewable power. Last month, VIC had the third-highest renewable percentage among the states with 28.0%. The renewables in VIC come from the following (for September): Wind: 63.6%, Solar: 24.9%, Hydro: 11.4%.
The best state is always TAS (99.5% in Sep - Wind: 20.7%, Solar: 1.6%, Hydro: 77.7%), and SA is always second best (66.4% in Sep - Wind: 77.7%, Solar: 22.3%, Hydro: 0%).
The worst state last month was QLD (16.9% - Wind: 19.0%, Solar: 70.0%, Hydro: 10.9%).
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Post by brunohill on Oct 11, 2020 22:26:43 GMT 11
I was assuming jaginoz was referring to Victoria as it is the only state that uses brown coal.
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Post by tomkauf on Oct 12, 2020 11:01:41 GMT 11
Hey jaginoz, I didn't think A Better Route Planner would find a different route for you. You probably already know the best way to go, especially if there's only one way to get out of your area like you mentioned.
I just thought the predicted consumption could be compared to what you had the other day. Assuming the planned route is the way you drove. Although you could put in waypoints to make the route the same.
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jaginoz
EV Enthusiast
Posts: 47
LEAF OWNER?: Yes
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Post by jaginoz on Oct 13, 2020 9:56:19 GMT 11
brunohill, EVangelist that's what I get for using slang. By brown i meant not green! AFAIK this state uses electricity created from fossil fuels, the %mix of renewables is <10% (<15% for the main populated areas) and mainly wind. tomkauf - thanks, ABRP did such a couple of different routes, but unfortunately yes, there is no way to avoid the vert gain on the way home. The battery is back to playing silly buggers again, max charge and a max predicted distance of 130km (no bar loss tho). Hopefully the LELink arrives soon (Jim and also OBD2 Australia still helping, but no luck so far, guess the OBD2 Australia dongle just doesn't like the car). :/
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