Just bought a ZE1 40kwh. After two runs up the 10km 80kph stretch near home where there are no overtaking opportunities, and noting a bank of cars behind me, i thought to check with google maps speedo, and found this problem, hence this ozleaf thread. anyone tried the
speedo corrector module from Jaycar ?
Further to this, did a bunch of hrs trying to make the Jaycar speedo corrector function.
Tried in vain to do research on Nissan 40-pin pinouts from ~2018 to hone my effort at finding the speedo signal wire.
So with that research failing, decided trial-and-error was all that remained.
Hooked up the power supply for the speedo corrector module, and decided to jumper the 'signal input' on the corrector module from the rear of the Leaf's Instrument Cluster 40-pin connector.
The pinout below is with connector facing you as if it were plugged into the instrument cluster, with wires hanging out the back away from you.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
---|
|
| skinny lug
|
|
|
|
| fat lug
|
|
| fat lug
|
|
|
|
| skinny lug
|
|
|
1 nil
| 2 brown
| 3 pink- black
| 4 nil
| 5 pink- blue
| 6 pink- DPink
| 7 green
| 8 pink- brwn
| 9 blue
| 10 pink- LBrwn
| 11 peach
| 12 pink- DBlue
| 13 DBlue
| 14 nil
| 15 nil
| 16 nil
| 17 olive
| 18 nil
| 19 nil
| 20 nil
|
21 black
| 22 black
| 23 nil
| 24 nil
| 25 Red
| 26 DPurpl
| 27 nil
| 28 nil
| 29 nil
| 30 Lpink
| 31 LBrwn
| 32 LBlue- pink
| 33 nil
| 34 nil
| 35 nil
| 36 LGrn
| 37 nil
| 38 olive
| 39 nil
| 40 LGrn- pink
|
noting: L and D meaning Light and Dark in the above pinout. (see attached photos)
The method for trial-error was to;
- shove two pins (as in flat head sewing pins) into the back of each of the connector's occupied slots, one at a time,
- jump the sewing pins from the connector to the input signal of the speedo corrector,
- drive for about 20 seconds,
- the LED on the corrector module *should* light up, and if it has detected a valid speedo signal that it can detect and correct, it will flash "at 1Hz" (according to
the manual),
- in every instance, disconnect power supply to the speedo corrector, change the LK1 jumper to LK2 to do the 20-30sec driving test using both LK1 and LK2 settings for each connector pin.
There were only 2 pins that made the LED illuminate, the LED illuminated exactly the same regardless of LK1 or LK2 jumper setting, and neither of these live connections made the corrector module LED flash at 1Hz.
The first that did cause the module LED to light up was pin 17, and the other was pin 11.
To then attach the corrector module in line without cutting any wires, i figured on;
1) pulling the pin out of the connector,
2) if the speedo is affected, jump the removed pin to the speedo corrector module input, and jump the speedo corrector module output to the instrument cluster.
To pull these pins out of the connector;
- pull the front of the connector off (down);
- lever the lower rear section down after releasing the small side lugs;
- while gently levering the lower rear section down, simultaneously;
- use a tiny screwdriver to push up on the retaining clip inside the front of the connector, above the pin you want to remove;
- pull gently on the cable at the rear.
After pulling pin17, and driving the car, the speedo still functioned so this was clearly not the speedo signal wire.
Notably I was given two warnings on the dash one was an EV system warning and another Key system warning. They persisted after cycling the ignition off and on, and i couldn't permanently clear them in the moment. Both messages did disappear however once re-installed everything, parked the car up for the night, and then went out for a drive the next day.
After pulling pin11, and driving the car, the speedo no longer functioned and the system was blaring flashing lights and tones and warnings all over the joint.
Interestingly, the car still drove okay for the low speed stuff I was doing (was kind of expecting turtle mode or something when the instrument cluster wasn't correctly connected).
So, with pin11 out I jumpered it to the speedo module input, and jumpered from the speedo module output onto the instrument cluster. Still just blaring warning tones etc. no luck.
Noting that my test was not 100% exhaustive;
- I didn't check the smaller 16 pin connector on the back of the instrument cluster with 4 wires hanging out of it on my G series, and
- I didn't drive for 1 full minute for every one of the wires I was testing (more like 20-30 sec ea) as advised by the manual, and
- I tried but failed to remove the speedo needle, in order to remove the PCB and search the hidden side of the instrument cluster PCB for any equivalent of the Nissan Sylvia S13/S14 speedo adjustment method (
discussed here)
My conclusion;
Pretty sure this Speedo Corrector Module is not compatible with the speedo signal type for the Leaf.
Attachments: